Friday, August 17, 2018

Emma-burgh

I made the 8:03 train to Edinburgh on time, but I hadn't showered.  (I did put on deodorant and brush my teeth.)  I slept most of the way.  The train arrived on time, and I went off in the direction of my hotel.  Google maps was having issues, as the compass kept spinning.  Eventually, I figured it all out, and headed for the hotel.

The walk included hauling my very heavy suitcase up a HUGE stairway.  How big?  There is a tiny pub halfway up the steps called "Halfway House."  Seriously!


The steps.  The homeless guy watched me haul my suitcase up the steps, but didn't offer to help.



The dotted line is the stairway


Tired, hot, and sweaty, I arrived at the Ibis South Bank Hotel at 9 AM.  In all the years I've been travelling, over three continents, I have NEVER had a problem checking in early.  Well, I did here.  They informed me that check in was 2 PM, and they did so quite rudely.  I was angry, and thought about going to another hotel.  I went down the street to a place called The City to eat, as I was famished.  There I had a full breakfast (with haggis.)  I came back and saw that a different person was working as receptionist (there was no desk- just someone in a red t-shirt.)  I heard that person deny a couple an early check-in as well, but not as rudely.  The couple was just as perplexed as I was.

I went to a restroom and splashed water in my face.  I felt some scummy.  I sat in the "lobby" and wrote in my travel journal.


The Travel Journal

I was there maybe half an hour when Emma came through the door.

Emma was a local, and she graciously volunteered to show me around for the day.  Emma is a fellow sister of Vanity Club, and that's how I initially contacted her.  But like several transgender women that I consider inspirations, I knew about her before I transitioned.  I found her pictures on Flickr.  She always presents herself with class and elegance.


Emma in front of Edinburgh Castle

So there she was in person- all classy and elegant.  Me?  I was unshowered, unshaven- a total wreck.  I was completely embarrassed.  Still she was wonderful.  She has a rather thick Scots brogue, but it wasn't a problem, as I am used to it.  (Mum is Scottish.)  Emma's voice was so feminine, she made me jealous as hell.

We spoke for a moment, deciding what to do.  We decided to walk up the Royal Mile (which is uphill) to Edinburgh Castle.  I really wanted to see it again, as I'd been there the last time I was in Scotland back in 1972.  Back then, I didn't "get it."  I was just a little kid.  Now, I'm a grown woman and a history fanatic who loves castles.  On the way up the Royal Mile, we detoured through a parking lot around a cathedral.  Apparently John Knox is buried beneath it somewhere.



That's a huge cannon: Mons Meg.  It's been moved since 1972, having undergone conservation.  In the picture on the left, I'm the short one.  As you can see, I'm a little taller among other things.  When I planned this trip, this was THE picture I wanted to take. We couldn't do the identical angle because the gun was being swarmed by a tour group.

And it was right about then that the elastic in my panties gave out.

So to recap- I feel scummy and look worse, I'm accompanied by the picture of elegance... and now I'm pulling up my panties every couple of minutes.

While there, we watched the firing of the One O'Clock Gun, which was a great display of military precision.

We toured the whole castle, including the old St. Margaret's chapel.  Afterwards we headed down the Royal Mile, passing a wall I remember from my last visit- with a cannonball embedded in it.


St. Margaret's Chapel.


See the cannonball?  Center of the picture


At the Whiskey Experience.  Classy Emma and Slob Sophie

We went to the Whiskey Experience, which was all about Scotch.  Both of us love scotch, so it was wonderful!  They house the world's largest collection of Scotch- 3,384!  Price of admission included... SAMPLES!  Yes.....

We then continued walking east- downhill on the Royal Mile.  There were many touristy shops, a piper in full regalia on every block, and plenty of pubs.

We stopped at St. Giles Cathedral, whose construction began in 1322, and continued for 150 years.  John Knox, the noted protestant reformer, preached there, and is buried under the parking lot.


The cavernous High Kirk


Facing east toward the entrance


Wow.

Cathedrals fascinate me.  I am in awe of the architecture, the beauty, and the craftsmanship of these incredible buildings.  I also have read a lot about the the politics and economy of the building of them- generations of workers toiling to create a building to last ages.

However, I had a second reason to visit here, in addition to gaping.  I wanted to light a candle for Lisa Empanada.  Yes, she was an atheist, but this small gesture of remembrance comforted me- I could show the world, silently, that I still think of her and cherish her memory.


Lisa's candle is the one at the top left.


After the cathedral, Emma and I went back to the hotel.  Time flew past quickly, as Emma is an amazing conversationalist who is knowledgeable about a diverse array of topics, especially Scottish history.  I was able to check in (finally) and go to my tiny room.  There I FINALLY showered, shaved, threw out the underwear, and did a quick makeup job.  When I cam back down, Emma was waiting in the lobby.  She'd changed into a stylish dress, and re-did her makeup.  Even cleaned up, I felt so very scruffy next to her.  That's me: the "Ugly American."


View from the door


View from the window

We decided to eat at a nearby hotel restaurant: the Itchycoo.  Seriously.  Does Donovan get royalties?  We weren't IN the restaurant per se.  We were seated outside the restaurant in the lobby.  Grr.  Anyway, I had steak.  During dinner, a piper wandered about the hotel common areas, sometimes rendering conversation impossible.

After dinner, I feared Emma would be tired of my company.  No, she wanted to keep going!  So she suggested a pub up the Royal Mile a bit.


Emma enjoying an after dinner glass of wine


Did I mention the cobblestones?  The Royal Mile is all cobblestones.  And we were in heels for dinner.  Emma glided gracefully over the cobblestones, making it look easy.  I looked like a drunken sailor, stumbling and tripping.

We went to the Deacon Brodies Tavern for a couple of pints.  It was a quaint place, named after the inspiration for Dr. Jekyll/ Mr. Hyde.  We had a couple of pints each, during which time we chatted about many things while watching two "ladies of the evening" ply their trade on a tourist.


With Emma at the pub


Behind the bar


You can see one of the ladies to the left of the guy in glasses


After the pints...and the wine... and the scotch, we were quite tired.  However, Emma wanted to show me a couple more things.  We went downhill- south on George IV Bridge.  Emma mentioned that Edinburgh was a truly three dimensional city, in that in many cases, the current city is built OVER previous incarnations, which are now intact underground (there are tours too!)  It also makes for a nightmare in navigation.


These streets intersect??

We passed the cafe where JK Rowling wrote the first Harry Potter book, then Emma brought me to a statue of a dog: Greyfriars Bobby.  The legend is that the dog was so loyal that he guarded the grave of his master for 14 years after his master died.  It's across a narrow street from a pub named in the dog's honor.  On that little isthmus of sidewalk, two college age girls were holding back the hair of a third who was vomiting the everything she'd eaten in the past ten years.  I asked if they needed help, and they politely said no thank you.  Within a minute, they tossed their drunk friend into a taxi, and they drove off.


 Greyfriars Bobby statue


Picture courtesy of Google maps


Here is where Emma and I parted company.  I don't know if she lived nearby or was parked nearby, but she said this was her parting point. We hugged, and she disappeared into the night.

What I DIDN'T know was how close I was to one of the places I wanted to visit: the infamous Greyfriars Kirkyard.  Known as one of the most haunted cemeteries in the world, visitors have left bruised, burned, and bloody from unseen attackers.  In the google picture above, the Kirkyard is down that tiny alley between buildings.  I love old cemeteries, and this one was high on my list, but I didn't know where it was, and I figured Emma wouldn't want to show it to me, so...


Picture:  Google maps

The cemetery also has a Harry Potter connection.  Not that I care, but it does.  I've never read HP, nor have I seen any of the movies.  In any case, we'd passed the Elephant House, so I went back to take a couple of pictures.




From there, I wandered the dark streets- a woman alone clack clacking on the sidewalks- back to the hotel, where I took off my makeup and promptly collapsed.  I'd done a LOT of walking that day, and my feet, back and legs ached.




Blue: first walk.  Green: return to hotel. Red: Dinner/pub walk. Purple: After pub


The Royal Mile is essentially "Disneyland: Scotland:" a big show for the tourists, showing what they "expect to see" in Scotland.  There were pipers, cobblestones, haggis, pubs, a cathedral, and two castles.  Everyone was snapping pictures of the ubiquitous pipers, and bagpipe music was everywhere.  If I had time, I would've loved to explore more of the city, or the very nearby Stirling and Bannockburn, as well as to pay respects to the Bruce.  Emma gave me that option instead of the castle walk we did, but I NEEDED to see the castle again.

Time was not on my side, as the next morning I again had an early (6:22 AM) train.  And this time, I'd take a taxi instead of those damn steps!

Edinburgh was a wonderful stop, but I wish I'd felt more secure in my appearance (and underwear.)  I wanted to re-connect to old memories of the child who was here all those years ago.  I wanted to re-consecrate them as Sophie memories, and Emma was more than happy to join me.  She is very proud of her city, and it showed.


At Edinburgh Castle, looking north to the Firth of Forth

It's hard to put this trip to Scotland into perspective.  I don't know what I expected, and there were things I HAD to do that I didn't.  Like I didn't see my cousin Anne.  I didn't see Culloden or Loch Ness.  As I wrote above, it was a bit like a pilgrimage.  But it was also an introduction: I wanted my Scottish kin to meet Sophie.  And a few did.  Lynsey and Stephanie allowed me to see into their world, which wasn't just that of Scotland, but life for two 21 year old beautiful college students.  Seeing my Uncle again was a treat as well.

I had time to reflect on it on the long train ride the next morning.  The adventure wasn't over yet!


Next Stop:  London












4 comments:

  1. Great post, and great pics! Can't wait to read about London & Paris! Thanks for sharing, hon!
    :D

    Hugs,
    Cass xoxoxo

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  2. Enjoyed the story and history lesson. Thanks for posting

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  3. Sophie, it was my great pleasure to see Edinburgh with you. You were fascinating company and will be very welcome if you can make another trip. Nobody noticed your wardrobe malfunction - did you see mine? I warned you about those cobblestones!

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    1. No, I didn't notice it. You seemed perfectly put together!

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